Our garments are made from luxurious natural fibers that deserve to be treated and cared for well. Following the care symbols in the garment label – and some advice – ensures enjoyment for a long, long time. Well maintained cashmere styles can endure decades and long to be passed on even to the next generation. 



Let’s bust this myth once and for all: You do not have to dry clean ALL of your precious stuff or even cashmere sweaters unless it is clearly indicated on the garment label with a crossed out washing symbol. If this is the case, be humble and take it serious! Unless you want to end up with dolly-sized clothes…


If machine wash is allowed, please choose the gentle cycle and temperature according to the care label. Always turn the garments left-side out and do not overload the washing machine. Modern detergents are very effective, but can damage the fibers and pollute the environment. Natural materials are often washed with natural shampoos – choose high-quality chemical-free shampoos and follow their individual instructions for use and dosage. Less is often more!


Once you’ve gotten the excess water out, lay the garment on a clean towel or drying rack and re-create its natural shape. Let it air dry. A major no-no: Hanging your sweater up to dry. You’re going to end up with a sleeve sagging in a place it shouldn’t be. We never use a dryer, even if the care label says we can. It damages the fibers and consumes too much energy.


Another big no-no. Our superior materials need no softener. The plante will appreciate!



In classic textile cleaning, water is replaced by a solvent. The frequently used term for “dry” cleaning refers only to the fact that the solvents are anhydrous. The solvents used today are hydrocarbon solvents (KWL) and perchloroethylene (PER).

In the beginning, completely different solvents were used. For example turpentine oil (around 1825), which removes greasy substances very well, but also smells accordingly. Then benzene, but toxic and flammable, just like benzine. In the 20th century carbon tetrachloride was used, which combines two positive properties: It does not burn and is even more fat-dissolving than benzine. New machines were developed for use, which cleaned, tumbled and dried. This was followed by perchloroethylene, which unfortunately attacks colours and prints. The use of trichlorotrifluoroethane CFC 113 and trichlorofluoromethane CFC 11 was banned in 1993 because they cause enormous damage to the ozone layer. To our day, it has been replaced by hydrocarbon solvents (HCS).


Water causes many fibres to soak up, some fabrics and fibres such as wool and silk are very sensitive when wet and can be damaged and deformed during washing. Wool can felt or shrink if treated incorrectly and silk fibres can rupture quickly. Since the fibres do not soak during textile cleaning, there is no change in shape, so this procedure is recommended for some garments so as not to put unnecessary damage to the fabric.

However, we must not forget that the use of chemicals is a heavy burden on the environment and should therefore reconsider every step of the cleaning process!

Sometimes one night out in the fresh air is enough…


Cashmere is the hair of a goat and similar to our hair: consisting of many horn flakes! Excessive friction can cause them to get stuck together and together with the natural wool grease they form small knots: the unloved pilling!

As long as pilling really only occurs in exposed areas (under the arms, on the wrist, handbag, seat belt, etc..), this is not yet a sign of inferior quality and can best be removed – after washing – with a wool comb. In the first days – as long as loose hair is knitted, pilling can occur more often, but should become less and less after combing.

Steam cashmere after washing so that the fibres settle better, so your item will rarely pill!